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First, use a try-square; to check that the meeting faces or ends of the timber to be joined are cut perfectly square and are of the same thickness. You can then mark the positions for the dowel holes. Set a marking gauge to half the width of the timber, and mark a line down the middle of the end of one length of timber. Determine exactly where on this line the centre of the holes will be the ideal is that they should be from 25mm (1 in) to 50mm (2in) apart and never nearer than 19mm from the edges. Using a try-square, draw lines across the gauge line to mark the exact centres of the holes.

To mark matching holes in corresponding positions on the second piece of timber use the following method to ensure accuracy Drive small panel pins into the first piece at the positions you’ve marked for the holes

Leave the pins slightly proud of the surface and snip off their heads with pliers. Bring the two pieces of wood together in the correct joint position, and the heads of the pins will mark where the holes are to be bored in the second piece of timber. Remove the pins with pincers before drilling.

Where you are joining two horizontal rails to an upright at a corner, you should stagger the holes, otherwise the dowels will clash inside the upright.

Marking up

1 With wood that’s rectangular or square in section, use a marking gauge to make the central line on the edge where the dowels will go.

3 Lightly tap small panel pins into the wood at the two centre points. Snip off their heads leaving about 3mm protruding.

4 Holding the second piece of timber firmly against a bench hook or edge of the try-square, press the pins in to mark the drill positions (inset).